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Frequently asked questions...

I'm getting a puppy!  Tell me all the things. 
 

While I’m sure there will be more questions along the way, I want to answer a few common questions to help your snuggly new addition transition from our home to yours.  Some of these things may work foryou, and some may not. That’s okay! This is simply how we do things, and what works for us.  

What do I feed my new puppy?

Your puppy is currently eating TLC All Life Stages.  This all life stages food designed for active breeds.  We have tried many different brands and varieties over the years.  We are thrilled with TLC!  Puppies typically eat 1/2-1 cup of food twice daily. 

Puppies, when they go home, will experience normal stress that comes with change.  This may cause them to nibble on their food rather than consume an entire meal as you may hope to see to know they are adjusting well. 


We serve breakfast around 8am, and dinner between 6-7pm.  Here, they have their brothers and sisters to contend with encouraging them to eat quickly.  At your home, they will realize they don’t have to rush.  My recommendation is to limit distractions during meal times. 

I recommend feeding your puppy their meals in their crates.  After a potty/play session, give them time in their crate to eat.  This will help keep them on a schedule that will aid in daily routines, as well as predictable house training/potty habits. 

Keep in mind, when puppies go to their forever homes, everything is new!  Nibbling or not completely eating every meal is likely due to distraction with all of these new things and great adventures they are enjoying rather than a distaste for the food.  They will nibble for a few days.  After they settle in, their meal consumption will be more consistent. 

Bad habits are easier to prevent than break.  Steer away from adding canned food or tempting gravy or sauces to their food to lure them to eat.  Give them a little time to figure things out.  They will eat.

Between 6 and 8 months, you can drop to one meal a day.   Intermittent fasting goes along with once-a-day feeding and is good for healthy digestive systems. 

If you do decide to change their food, changes should be made over the course of days, not all at once.  This will help with tummy upset.  Mix some of the new food with the original food adding a little more of the new and a little less of the original daily until you have completely transitioned to your new choice.  

If you are not satisfied with TLC, here are some other brands we don't particularly hate:

  • Purina ProPlan Puppy - Many Mom & Pop Pet/Feed Stores, Tractor Supply, CAL Ranch

  • Eukanuba Puppy

  • Science Diet 

  • Royal Canin 

Here are some other brands we strongly suggest avoiding:

  • Taste of the Wild

  • Blue Buffalo

  • 4 Health 

  • Victor 

  • Diamond Naturals
     

We have truly tried so many things over the years.  It's an age old question.  We are happy with the results of TLC.

Do you have any house training tips?

Puppies potty a lot!  It will feel like you re walking 24/7 for a few weeks.  You are correct!  Consistency and frequency are key.  Putting in the effort early on will save frustration as time continues.  Poodles and cavapoos are so very smart.  They learn easily.   They can also be sneaky.  :-)

Puppies will definitely need to potty first thing after they wake up.  They will also need a potty break after every meal, play session, water break, nap, and crate interval (even if the interval was for 15 minutes and they pottied right before they went into their crate-trust me)!  Set a timer and walk them as close to every 30 minutes as possible for the first several days.  You can adjust the time a little longer after you get aquatinted to them individually.  They will likely need to walk hourly during the day for a couple of weeks.  They will be able to hold it longer during crate times and at night. 

Poochy bells are highly recommended and easy to teach and learn. Hang them on your door knob or a command hook beside the door.  Simply ring the bells as you’re taking them out. Use what ever command you decide.  “Let’s go potty.”, ring the bell, go out the door.  This doesn’t have to be a big production, it simply has to be consistent.  Lots of praise after they do their business! 

I promise, before you know it, you will be somewhere in your house and stop in your tracks wondering if you heard the bell.  You did!  Take them straight out to potty, and praise them like you have never praised them before.  The bells give them a voice that you can understand.  They learn quickly. 

If you take them out and they don’t potty.  That’s okay.  Bring them back in and have a crate interval of 30 minutes or so.  Then, back out to potty. 

If you cannot directly supervise your puppy for a time, crate them.  It’s okay!  It’s all a part of the process.  Some people use crates forever, some just use them through training.  I am a forever crate person.  My dogs have no crate or separation anxiety.  While I love them and, of course, want them to want to be with me, I also want them to know I will be back and the crate isn’t something to stress over.  I don’t have to worry about them chewing into an electrical cord while I am away or about them eating a couch while they’re teething.  It’s safe.  

When should we see the vet?

I know you want to take your puppy all over and into the world, get to socializing and showing off, however, we want to make sure your pup is safe, which means we have to be a little restrictive with where you can go until the vaccination series is complete.

Your puppy will be due a booster vaccine between 10- 12 weeks of age.  Some veterinarians will try to insist on a booster vaccine during the first appointment even if that appointment is days after they go home.  Please do not allow them to vaccinate your puppy again until at the very earliest 10 weeks, preferable 11-12. 

Vaccines are recommended at 12, and 16 weeks.  At the 16 week mark, a rabies vaccine is also recommended.  Your puppy has not received a lyme’s vaccine at this age.  I do recommend vaccinating for lyme’s.

Your puppy is not fully immune to the diseases for which they have been vaccinated for.  This takes a series of vaccines to build complete immunity.  Please avoid direct or indirect contact with other dogs or puppies until after 16-20 weeks. Puppy classes, PetSmart, parks, dog rest areas at stops… all okay places in time. Now is not that time.  Protecting your puppy is of upmost importance while their antibodies are building. 

I also highly recommend a monthly parasite preventative routine.  I personally use Nexgard and Interceptor monthly.  There are many different options.  Please discuss the pros and cons of each with your doctor.
 

We recommend the following vaccination schedule:

  • 8 weeks (5-way) - we do this one for you

  • 10/12 weeks (5-way, bordetella, and lymes) - 10 weeks if you’re in a heavy Parvo area, 12 weeks if your chance of exposure is low.

  • 16 weeks (5-way, bordetella, lymes & rabies) - final vaccination until 1-year booster (booster is a good just-in-case, then your puppy should be safe for Parvo, distemper, rabies, and adenovirus for life, the bordetella is not as good of a vaccine, since bacterial vaccines aren’t as good as viral, and would need boosters for continued immunity).

Do you recommend crate training?

I highly recommend crate training.  This is for your puppy’s safety as well as their security.  Crates are not punishment.  This is their den.  When trained correctly, your puppy will (in time) have no anxiety concerning their crate.  In fact, you will likely see them choosing to crate themselves because they find comfort in their little home. 

I recommend setting the crate up in your most commonly used room of your house.  You can move it later.  Right now, this is just to get them adapted to it.  Puppies should sleep in their crate at night.  I do not recommend giving water to them in their crates at this age.  Water = potty.  The goal is to keep the crate dry and comfy. 

I use towels or thinner blankets in the tray to begin with.  These can be washed easily.  You can add a comfy pad or bed after your puppy has the dry crate down pat. 

When you are around your house during the day, give your puppy regular intervals in their crate.  Teach them to go into their crate when you tell them to, treats, and praise work well.  Repeating the command crate, then offering a treat and praise over and over a few times during a training session will have this down rather quickly.  During these regular crate intervals give them chew toys that they typically do not have access to freely.  I prefer bully sticks or deer antlers rather than actual toys during these times.  Raw hides are dangerous and should be avoided. 

 

Wire or plastic?

 

This is a long debate that would be boring to listen to, but there are some differences.

The solid plastic crates are better for keeping dog mess inside the crate, if there’s an accident, it’ll catch it. They can be hard to clean though since you need to climb in there and wipe them out. The dogs do seem to like the dark of them a little better, it feels safer. Yet, they can be an awkward shape and aren’t great as a table.

 

The wire crates can be a pain because the “dog dust” and any mess come out the sides more easily and this creates a weird line of dog dirt and hair around the edges of the crate, something you could sweep once a week, it’s crazy. The tray is easy to take out and wipe and it can hold some mess, but if there’s poop on the wires, well, you might want a pressure washer. They collapse and can be put away, which is nice for smaller spaces and can be easier with travel. They also come with dividers making the crate smaller when the puppy is younger, this assists in house training since if the dog has too much space in the crate they’ll use one side for a bathroom. So you can buy the adult crate and make it work for your puppy.

 

Either will work and I do have used both at my home. It really comes down to your preference.


If your puppy whines or starts to cry, which they likely will, you can make a den by covering the crate with a thin blanket or towel to keep them from being able to see around the room or see you.  This is temporary.  Teaching them their crate is a cozy place when you are home will give them comfort knowing it’s a good place when you have to leave the house.  It is not punishment.  I promise!  Crates are wonderful tool, but as with all things, it takes training.  

Where can I take my puppy?

Where can you take your pup before they’re fully vaccinated? You don’t want to prevent them from getting the socialization they need, but sometimes it isn’t worth the risk, after all, there’s no desirable socialization when stuck in quarantine at a veterinary clinic.

 

Vaccines can take up to 14 days to build immunity, that means that if your pup is vaccinated, you aren’t safe until 14 days later, and, as we know from the last email on vaccines, mom’s passive immunity can further interfere.

 

The safest thing would be to not have your puppy interact with any other dogs or go to heavily populated dog areas until 14 days after the final vaccination at 16 weeks…however, there’s a lot of great opportunities for pups prior to this age—besides, I know you want to show your pup off to your friends—so what do you do?

 

My best advice is to hedge your bets.

 

This means that until 14 days after the last vaccination I wouldn’t risk doggy daycare, dog parks, nor walking on the floor at pet stores, and I probably wouldn’t do any puppy classes. To me, they’re too risky.

 

However, going camping, going to friends’ houses where they have fully vaccinated dogs (and never had Parvo at their yards) should be fine. If you want to go to the pet store, I would carry your pup, not letting them sit in the cart or walk on the floor.

 

Walking on a sidewalk should be fine, but I wouldn’t have your pup playing in the neighborhood commons grass, there’s too much opportunity for dog-disease spread. Parvo is my biggest concern, it can live a long time if it’s moist, even in encrusted dog poop. What’s worse is that a dog who has survived Parvo and no longer has symptoms can still shed the virus for up to 30-days. This means many people with survivor dogs are infecting the areas they take their dog, so it’s just not a risk I like to take.

 

Community water bowls I would avoid, just grab a silicone collapsible bowl and bring your own water. Lakes and streams in the wild are more likely to cause giardia infections than dog viruses, just a fair warning.

 

Coffee shops where there are lots of dogs I would avoid, but generally places that are mopped daily with some form of sanitation, like restaurants usually do, should be less likely to have issues.

If you aren’t sure, shoot me a text, but my general advice is to err on the side of caution, while taking calculated risks by allowing your dog to interact with dogs you know, who are fully vaccinated.

Worms, ticks and fleas?  Oh my! 

Dogs, as cute as they are, can be gross, and eat some really nasty things and drink some make-you-want-to-puke water. While dogs do have a much more acidic stomach than us, allowing them to choose to eat roadkill and not die, they are prone to getting protozoan infections (like coccidia and giardia), and also helminths, which are worms, particularly tapeworms, but also hookworms, roundworms, and the like.

 

If your dog gets worms…it is not a reflection of your ownership, it’s the fact that you have a dog. These things are in the environment, interestingly, there is a nice chain of events where mice often have fleas and the fleas carry tapeworm eggs, so not only is your dog exposed to fleas when chasing and eating mice, but also they can ingest the tapeworms eggs and grow their own family of tapeworms.

 

The two most common things dogs get is giardia and tapeworms. If you want to treat homeopathically, I recommend treating giardia with MOOM, it’s a natural remedy using Oregano Essential Oil diluted with Extra Virgin Olive Oil. You can’t overdose it and if you get a high-quality oil, it’ll wipe the giardia out pretty quick. I’ve attached the recipe and how to use it in a pdf below.

 

I use Merk Safeguard to treat for tapeworms.  It is given three days consecutively and repeated for an additional three days two weeks later.  This can be purchased online or at tractor supply.  I purchase the goat wormer. 

 

Talk to your veterinarian about a monthly regime to treat and prevent worms and other parasite infestations such as fleas and ticks.  I personally use Nexguard and Interceptor.  

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